ИСТИНА

The research aiming at the development of simple high throughput analytical method to characterise and to quantify synthetic perfumes and essential oils in aqueous solution is presented. The approach exploits amphiphilic properties of aroma molecules resulting in their high interfacial dynamic activity, i.e. in the ability to decrease the surface tension of aqueous formulations. On the other side, in contrast to conventional surfactants, aroma molecules evaporate from air-water interface (or from the carrier surface), which results in the increase of the surface tension. Using dynamic tensiometry measurements (maximal bubble pressure tensiometer) we demonstrate the possibility to quantify the loading of a carrier material (e.g. inorganic salts) with perfume compositions, as well as the stability and shelf-life of the product. The results can be used for the optimisation of the procedures of perfume encapsulation/loading and for the evaluation/controlling of their release. Furthermore, the method is suitable for quantitative assessment of the amount of deposited perfumes on model and textile surfaces. The data obtained by the tensiometry measurements is correlated with the head-space chromatography analysis. Another important aspect of the developed approach is the possibility to evaluate the molecular solubility of perfumes/essential oils, which are typically poorly soluble in water. Comparison of our results with the literature values suggests that the latter are overrated due to so called meso-scale solubility of organic liquids in aqueous media. The methodological approach is further developed to disclose interactions of perfumes with other components of detergent and cosmetic formulations, such as surfactants, polymers, salts and pigments. The research is supported by the Russian Foundation for Basic Research (RFBR), research project № 18-53-76005.